How to 3D Print

                                                 Three-dimensional object is solid. Additive 3D printing process where materials are exposed in successive layers using different sizes are obtained.
Material 3D Printer is usually done printing process using digital technology. Treatment (with high accuracy the exact amount) is usually removed from the feed milling and grinding.
Personal manufacturing machines "fabbers" or "3D fabbers", as it is known. [Version needed]
The term "3D printing" was established in 1995 when MIT PhD Tim Anderson Jim Bredt and revised inkjet printer powder bed and not binding resolution ink on paper extrude. Z Corporation 3D printing companies advanced after the patent (Bredt and is formed by Anderson and is now owned by 3D Systems) and manage the creation of ExOne.
Modeling
Computer Aided Additive Manufacturing (CAD) or animation modeling software to design and print a victory toast for them to be used as a guide for digital cross-sections of the virtual machine takes plans. Machine used depending on content or binding materials together to build a platform bed or layering material / binder is complete and final 3D model is "printed". format film scanner input file and VRML (or WRL) files to 3D printing technology can print in full color is often used as input.

Printing : How Pow

                           To perform print books machine design and continuous layers of liquid, powder, or a series of cross-sections of the model allows for the construction of sheet metal. Layer with a thickness of 100 microns (0.1 mm) is about Objet Connex 3D Systems PROJET series and series 16 microns thin, some machines can print layers as . XY resolution compared with laser printers particles (3D dots) with a diameter of 50 to 100 micrometers (0.05 to 0.1 mm).
Construction of a model with contemporary methods from several hours to several days, the methods and models can be based on size and complexity.
Injection Molding polymer products such as traditional techniques to produce large quantities are more expensive, but added production faster, more flexible and more expensive when parts are relatively small amounts can cause. 3D printers teams of designers and concept development and conceptual models using a desktop size printer offers the ability to create.

Problems by observation

Printing in material A worked fine, now material B doesn't print well!

See the section on Polymers and "Troubleshooting: Solving flow related problems".

Brown sludge forms on the extruder head

If your printer came with an ABS Fix Kit (a piece of ABS filament), running this through the extruder will seal up any small leaks around the printer head. If for some reason you did not get this kit, any piece of 3mm ABS filament will do.

Plastic comes out of extruder head in a flowing state

If you turn the big extruder wheel manually, the plastic exiting the extruder head should form a thin line of plastic that hangs from the extruder head. In general, start at 215C for PLA plastic and 225 for ABS plastic.

The extruder stops extruding

There are several possible causes for this:

You are trying to extrude when the extruder is still cold. This may take quite some printing to get the last remains of ABS out of the extruder. Heating it to a higher temperature in general allows you to print at the higher speeds.

 Possibly, liquid PLA is pushed upward in the extruder to a section where no heating is applied. Normally, the (low friction) bowden tube has such a low friction that you can still push out the solidified PLA with some force.

 When the extruder has jammed, the material-feed mechanism may continue to push material into the extruder. Even if you're using PLA, one color of thermoplastic may stick perfectly while another color does not stick at all: this is because the colorants affect the melting point, also shift the recommended print temperatures.

If you have trouble getting the first layer to stick, you can do several things:

 Make sure the print head is almost touching the platform for the first layer. If this works better, you can make this permanent by changing the height of the Z-limit switch at the back of the machine (the top one).

Just when the print starts, you can turn the extruder-drive's gear a little to get increase the material flow for the first layer. Don't worry, you will not damage the motor by pushing it through its steps, it will just skip a few steps which is totally harmless!

If you're printing directly onto the acrylic platform, sanding and/or scratching the acrylic will help to create a stronger bond.

Try raising your extrusion temp a few degrees, even bumping the print temp by 5 degrees or so can really make a difference.

Ensure that the bed is level. If it isn't level, this will create a good bond in one place, but the head will be too high in the other.

 For the first layer, during printing you can increase the 'flow rate' through the Real Time Tuning feature (by clicking the icon with the sliders). Cleaning it with some rubbing alcohol removes the grease and makes the PLA stick easier.

My 3D prints do not look good!

Analyzing your first print (a great post by Florian on his blog)

Check if the fan (near the print head) turns on after the first layer has printed. If you print an object with a thin cross section very fast, it will not have time to cool. This can have several causes, each cause requires a different approach to solve it.

The causes and solutions are discussed in: Troubleshooting: Solving flow related problems.

Mechanical problems

X/Y axis

The extruder head stops moving during a print, or doesnt move at all (even in manual mode). Pushing directly on the print head assembly twists the bushings and causes them to jam. This would lead to slightly trapezoid prints which are no good for prints that need to be mechanically accurate. Click on the picture to see more details and annotations on the image.

When a layer is printed, the perimiters and infill of the object do not or barely touch. However, there are several cases that can cause irregular behavior:

If the printhead is not levelled out correctly, the print will deposit more on one side then the other, causing it to ripple or even warp prematurely.

If the printhead is level but the print looks shakey, it can be caused by several problems:

The Z-axis rod may have bent during shipping.

The Z-axis rod is not correctly seated in the aluminium holder.

The print is warping while printing, or has come loose on several parts.

The most important settings are:

Dimension

This feature should always be activated, otherwise you get no extrusion on your Ultimaker.

Retracting can be enabled, if you have more patience and want a higher quality build. With ReplicatorG, we added a feature which which you can increase/decrease the printing speed and flow rate together, during printing. This is a nice way to discover the printing speed that works well for a certain type of object.

The travel feed rate can be 250 or even 300 if your printer runs smoothly enough to handle it.

The perimeter feed rate and perimeter flow rate settings can be lowered to make the outline of the object print at a slower speed, which usually improves print quality. Use the same number (say 0.75 or so to start) on both settings.

Comb

Comb is a nice feature that makes sure the print head does not travel through holes.

How to make a raft that detaches easily

Recommended read: What is a 'raft'?.

Your raft should be easy to separate from the object that you wanted to print. For temperature changes, the machine will orbit the print head to give it time to change temperatures.

Extrude the interface layer a little lower than usual, this makes the bond between the object's first layer weaker.

This should be done with the "interface nozzle lift over interface layer thickness" setting or the "interface layer thickness over layer thickness".

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